Without track, we have no model railroad. There are no existing, pre-manufactured track systems available for Sn2 modelers. But, that doesn't mean that there is nothing available; it just means that you cannot expect to walk into any model railroad hobby shop and walk out with all the two-foot S-scale track that you'd need. This page offers some ideas.
Two-foot gauge means that there is 24" between the rails. If you handlay your track, you can match that exactly. However, the majority of Sn2 modelers simply use HOn3 track, which spaces out to 26.5" gauge (a scale 2.5" too wide). Some use N-scale track, which spaces out to 22.6" gauge (a scale 1.4" too narrow). N-scale is a closer match, but N-scale wheels are too small to match the 1:64 scale reduction of prototype Sn2 equipment. HOn3 wheels are closer to what Sn2 equipment should have.
In model railroading, the physical height of the metal rail itself is referred to as "code". This indicates the rail's height in one-thousandths of an inch. So, a piece of rail that is classified as "code 70" is 0.070 inches tall.
In the real world, railroads use weight as the rail measure. Rail sizes are indicated by the number of pounds a yard of rail weighs in North America and the UK. In the rest of the world, this is measured in kilograms per meter of rail, but it is the same concept, just different units. Either way, due to the different ways that we look at rails, there is no direct correlation or conversion factor that can be applied between prototype rail and model rail heights.
Most Sn2 modelers will use either code 55, code 70, or code 83 rail. It is more of an artistic expression as to which one you want to use. You will also have to look at your existing models to see what size flanges your engines and cars have; the taller the wheels' flanges, the taller of a rail you'll need, unless you are willing to grind- or file-down your wheels' flanges (doable, but not trivial).
Typically, our rail is made out of nickel-silver. This is a metal alloy, typically composed of copper, nickel, and zinc. The word "silver" is only used because it has a silvery, shiny look to it, but it contains no silver. The metal alloy is used in model railroading rail, because it offers excellent electrical conductivity, and it is rust-proof (more accurately, its oxide is conductive).
If you don't want to completely lay your track by hand from scratch, Fast Tracks offers a number of aids to help you. First, we would highly recommend that you download and print their printable turnout templates. These are very useful in helping you plan your track arrangement, even if you do not plan on using the Fast Tracks jigs or aids. See their web site for the various templates that they offer for free (you will need a software application to open up the PDF files, and access to a computer printer to print them).
The company offers their QuickSticks system for hand-laying ties. They are available for fixed straight track, for curves, for turnouts, and for wyes. See their web site for all the possibilities.
Their SweepSticks system allows you to make straight or smooth-curved hand-laid track. These aids can also be used for laying out a track plan, first. They are available for a number of different lengths or radii. See their web site for all the possibilities.
You can build your track on the workbench, effectively making your own sectional track system, using their Track Fixture system. They are available for three rail sizes, and for straight and curved tracks (various radii), and for turnouts and wyes. See their web site for what is available. The jig may appear to be expensive, but if you need to build more than a couple of uses of that track, you will find that the jigs quickly pay for themselves, if you have the ability to solder and a bit of time. Note that the curved-track fixture, for example, includes three different radii in one jig.
The company's Trifecta Sn2 gauge is important for making sure your track remains in gauge as you attach it to your layout, module, or diorama. They have two different ones available (see their web site), depending on which size rail you use. You will definitely need these if you hand-lay your track without using their jigs.
Their SpaceGauge jig (see their web site) allows you to properly space parallel tracks together. Various spacer sizes are available.
Micro Engineering manufactures rail in various code sizes, both weathered and unweathered. Although the Fast Tracks jigs do not support it, Micro Engineering also makes code 40 rail, if that is of interest to you.
Light Iron Turnout Company took over the Sn2 turnouts part of the business from Portland Locomotive Works. PLW also made Sn2 tie strips.
Trout Creek Engineering offers pre-built Sn2 turnouts and wyes in various frog numbers with code 70 or code 55 rail. They also offer pre-built frogs in codes 40, 55, 70, and 83, as well as basswood ties and transition rail (going from one rail code to another).
The NASG developed a standard for track. You can read all about it on our Engineering Standards page. By having a well-known, publicly-available standard by which manufacturers can produce their products for S-scale, we ensure compatibility between brands, so that you can buy track from one manufacturer, and be assured that the locomotive that you bought from another manufacturer will run on that track with freight cars you bought from yet another manufacturer. If you are going to hand-lay your track, be sure to study those standards.
Rick Blanchard has a wonderful web page that lists track spacing, rail sizes, brake piping, and other dimensional data, including for S-scale. He also has a web page listing how rail sizes related to the various scales, and another web page on how prototype track curvature relates to scale proportions. There is also an Excel data file listing how real world dimensions translate to S (without having to pull out the calculator).